Scotland 2024--Introduction
Our trip to Scotland started over two years ago. The impetus for this adventure was driven by the Clan MacDougall International Gathering 2024 scheduled at Dunollie Castle, Oban, Scotland in July/ and August of this year. Going to Scotland for this event likely would not have happened unless I hadn't taken an Ancestry.com DNA test a few years ago.
My family genealogy research earnestly started in the early 2000s. It began with entering my family information into Family Tree software (back then, this was not an online database, but a software program). I used information in a booklet compiled by a distant cousin on my mother’s Bryan (paternal) side of the family.
My mother’s maternal grandmother was a MacDougall. My early research helped me connect to my MacDougall ancestor, Duncan MacDougall. Using early genealogy internet resources on various websites, such as rootsweb.com, I found he emigrated to North Carolina in 1775, having been born in Argyllshire, Scotland in 1740. At that time, I could not find the elusive connection to my MacDougall line beyond Duncan.
Then, after taking my DNA test, an explosion of information occurred. As more and more information populated, based on my DNA and research, I was able to connect Duncan to his ancestors. Also, thanks to information on the website for Clan MacDougall Society of North America, I found that I descend from the 1st Chief of the clan and Somerled, King of the Isles (Hebrides) and Regent of Argyll.
My MacDougall line was only a part of my DNA story. The test revealed that I am 43% Scottish, 25% English & Northern European, 14% Welsh, 8% Irish, 6% Dane and Swede, 2% Germanic Europe, and 1% Norwegian.
I was also able to connect my family to many other notable clans of Scotland: Campbell, Stewart, Lindsay, McClusky, McConnachie, McBride, Frazier, McAlpin, and others, as well as septs of clans.
Originally, I had hoped that all three of my sons would make the trip, but as the date approached, that did not happen. My oldest son had already traveled to Scotland and declined, and my middle son started a new job and could not take two weeks off to make the trip.
So, over several months, Daniel (my youngest son) and I planned our airline details, itinerary, lodging, car rental, etc. We decided early that we wanted to “do our thing” rather than be at the mercy of a tour group. Both methods have their advantages but taking our time and rolling with the flow seemed best for us.
It was a challenge trying to squeeze seeing as much as possible into two weeks and remain upright and sane. Because July/August is peak travel time to Scotland, we needed to make and finalize many of our plans months in advance.
We decided to arrive in Glasgow, spend the night, and drive to Oban, where we would attend the gathering and see three of the Inner Hebrides via ferry tour. Next, we would drive to Skye, then on to Inverness, and finally to Edinburgh, spending various lengths of time at each destination. To return we would take the train back to Glasgow and fly home.
Also, as part of my planning, I created a notebook containing copies of travel documents (driver’s license, passport, insurance cards, credit cards, etc.) I also put in our lodging, flight, and car rental information, as well as personal data (health information, next of kin, emergency contacts, medication list, etc.). Another section of the booklet was dedicated to our planned itinerary. It contained a packing list as well. Then I took the pages to Staples and had them put into a sturdy paper folder, that I cut in half to use as front and back of the binder. I added section tabs and blank pages for notes, then had the contents spiral bound. It was inexpensive, thin, and used throughout the trip.
Finally, the long-awaited day arrived. Dan’s wife drove us to Indianapolis Airport, and we flew to JFK, with a connection via Amsterdam, then Glasgow. After many hours of flying time, we had arrived.
We cleared customs, exchanged our U.S. dollars for UK Scottish pounds, then grabbed a taxi and headed to the car rental agency. Interestingly, our taxi driver, a native Scot, had been married in Miami and returned to celebrate his 35th anniversary. His friendliness and welcoming attitude set the tone for our visit.
Our initial plan was to do a short walking tour of Glasgow, grab some dinner, then go to our Air BNB. However, we were exhausted. We had to wait for our car rental, which was not ready due to an internal communication issue. The staff at Budge Car Rental in Glasgow were great and corrected their error quickly with Glaswegian hospitality and efficiency.
After driving away and while waiting for check-in time at the BNB, we found a local bistro near the apartment and had a late lunch. (BTW, Daniel did great the entire trip driving on the wrong side of the road!) At the bistro, he enjoyed a full Scottish breakfast, and I had a sandwich. We both had our first taste of the national soft drink of Scotland—IRN-BRU™.\
The apartment in Glasgow was a one-bedroom, with a sofa bed in the “sitting room”. FYI, there is a bit of a learning curve in the UK related to energy use. The bathrooms have on-demand hot-water heaters which must be activated ahead of time if you want hot water. Also, the BNB and hotels did not have washcloths as part of the linen service, so if you are a washcloth-using person, pack a couple for your trip!
I do use washcloths and was thankful I packed some ScrubEZZ™ Bath Cloths that I ordered from QVC. These handy cloths are dry and are activated by wetting them with water. They do not require rinsing and, thus are great for bed baths and freshening up on the go. I used them for washcloths, and I am sure they would be great for families traveling with young children.
Scotland 2024--Day 2
We began our day by having breakfast at the same bistro where we’d eaten the previous evening. Then, we were on our way to Oban. Words cannot express the beauty of the countryside in Scotland. Even the many photographs we took do not do this magnificent country justice.
As we wound our way north out of Glasgow toward Oban, we came across a large archway set a bit off the road with a parking area on the western shore of Loch (Scottish word for “lake”) Lomond. We were not sure what it was, but we pulled over, nevertheless. To the right of the archway and its large iron gate, was a smaller gate leading to a pathway. Due to the muddy conditions, we did not explore further but are still in the dark about what this archway signifies. Was it perhaps an old estate? My research of images near the loch has come up empty, so if anyone reading this knows the significance of this archway, please IM me or send me a message on my website.
 Mysterious Arch |  Small gate beside arch |
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Loch Lomond is a large loch and as we rode along the countryside was intermittently hidden by trees, but then we would turn a bend in the road and there it would be in all its glory. We finally found a pullover on the loch side of the road and took a stroll along the northwestern shore of the loch. FYI, Scotland is very relaxed as it relates to camping. There were tents in all kinds of places along our journey. As our trip progressed, we would see many tents and caravans (campers/motorhomes) along almost every road we traveled. And you cannot blame these folks for roughing or glamping it. The entire country is a postcard.
At our pullover, we enjoyed serene early-morning waters set against rising hills and clear skies. There were ducks, and a gentleman fly fishing along the shore. Even though it was July, the air was crisp and clean, like a Fall morning on the East Coast of the U.S.
 Summer Morning on Loch Lomond |  Narrow-leafed Willow Herb |
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 Flora Along the Path |
The first scheduled stop on our itinerary was Kilmartin Glen. This prehistoric site sits in the middle of a pasture, filled with content, grazing sheep. The parking area is across the street from the glen. The glen itself is accessed via a footbridge that crosses a trickling burn (stream).
Of the over 300 sites in the Kilmartin Valley, over 150 of them are prehistoric. Kilmartin Glen holds one of the most important concentrations of Neolithic and Bronze Age remains in Scotland.
Once walking over the lively burn, we entered the glen, dogging sheep poo, to arrive at the standing stones. The X-shaped monument of 5 stones is believed to have been raised by bronze-aged farmers around 1500 B.C.E. Remarkably, the stones mark where the moon rises and sets at its key 18.5-year cycle and also mark alignment with the sun.
Walking further along the glen, we reached a substantial burial cairn. Although we did not visit all the other sites in the vicinity of the town of Kilmartin, this glen was a delight and was our first taste of ancient Scotland.
After enjoying the glen and stepping in sheep poo, I was glad I wore my waterproof hiking boots. With the inevitable moisture of Scotland, you will need to add that item to your packing list.
 Kilmartin Glen |  Interior of the Burial Cairn |
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 Size of the Cairn |  From the Top of the Cairn |
 Prehistoric Stones Up Close | |
Stones on Kilmartin Glen |  Keeping an Eye on Us |
 Flora of Scotland |  Stone fence at Car Park |
 Small Burn (Stream) Beside the Glen |  Happy Sheep |
 Standing Stones |  Closer Look at the Stone |
We were disappointed to discover that Inveraray Castle, the ancestral home of Clan Campbell, was closed on this weekday. The castle holds many authentic weapons in its armory that were used at the Battle of Culloden.
All too soon, we arrived in Oban, also known as the “Gateway to the Isles.” This small postcard town and harbor boasts delicious, fresh seafood, a distillery, and large ferries that move folks from the mainland to many of the Hebrides, bother inner and outer isles.
Daniel and I rented a two-bedroom apartment via Airbnb while in Oban. It was well-appointed and within walking distance of the harbor and town center. As always, the citizens of Scotland were very friendly and helpful. As Daniel was paying to park in the parking lot across the street from the apartment, a local told Dan that if he were to pay for his parking, and then push the “red” button, her would get his money back. I can neither confirm nor deny if he was correct.
After settling into the apartment, we walked to the local market and bought some groceries. Daniel prepared us a great steak and we enjoyed it with a salad.
Regarding food, European Union countries have very strict food quality regulations. For example, in Italy, nitrates are not added to wine. Daniel was appalled to find (after reading the ingredients) that ketchup in Scotland has 4 ingredients (tomatoes, vinegar, salt, and sugar). Yep, that’s it. He and marveled at the tenderness of our five-dollar Aldi steaks. Aldi stores, being a German-based company, were everywhere in Scotland.
After dinner, we settled into our evening routine. The next day we were going to Dunollie Castle grounds to join the clan gathering.
Scotland Day 2-Update (Mysterious Arch)
Thanks to the generous feedback on the MacDougall Clan FB group, I now know about that mysterious arch. It is a no-longer-used drive for Rossdhe House, an 18th-century estate, which was built to replace the Colquhoun clan’s 15th-century medieval castle. The original castle ruins are behind the newer clan home. This 600-acre estate sits on a peninsula on the shores of Loch Lomond. In 1994, it became a private golf club and spa. See photos on the link above. Thank you, Clan MacDougall! You always come through.
Scotland 2024--Day 3
This new morning in Scotland would be the crux of why we planned this trip. We were going to visit Dunollie Castle and the MacDougall Clan International Gathering being held there. Due to time constraints, we could not attend the many activities planned by the staff over the week during the gathering, which was frustrating. We knew we would enjoy our time in Oban, nevertheless.
We drove to the harbor and found a great spot for breakfast. The Corryvreckan had great offerings. Dan and I both ordered the Scottish Breakfast, which included fried egg, bacon (much like American ham), link sausage, black pudding, baked beans (yes, like American baked beans), a potato scone, and toast.
FYI, Black pudding is a type of blood sausage originating in the UK, including Ireland. It is made from pork blood (or occasionally beef), with pork fat or beef suet, and a cereal, usually oatmeal, oat groats, or barley groats. A potato scone reminds me of my mom’s left-over mashed potatoes she would use the morning after cooking them. By adding egg and a bit of flour, she would pan-fry them into a single-serve patty for our breakfast. The ones we had in Scotland appeared to be mass-produced and shaped and were drier than my mom’s\
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I passed on the black pudding. No offense, Scotland, but not my thing. As an aside, I did come to love haggis during our visit.
After breakfast, we wandered into McCaig’s Warehouse, a well-appointed gift shop situated on the harbor near the working fishing docks of Oban. The salesperson who helped us with our purchases was friendly and showed us a special display of all things MacDougall. They also had an impressive scotch selection.
We then headed the short drive from the harbor to Dunollie Castle grounds. Quite a few attendees were already waiting near the gate to the car park, so we all waited to get parked until the staff could prepare for a busy day of MacDougall folk dripping by the grounds.
We had preregistered and were given a lovely gift bag when signing in. It included a fabric shopping bag with the clan gathering logo printed on it. Inside was a journal with the same log on the cover, a metal water bottle with the logo, a lapel pin, a program of activities, and a jar of blueberry jam made by the staff for attendees. By the way, it was delicious, and I enjoyed it many mornings after returning home on my homemade English muffin bread.
Our first stop was the 1745 House, which was the laird’s house after the ruined castle was abandoned for habitation. Currently, the Dunollie Preservation Trust maintains the grounds and its holdings. Dunolie Castle has an amazing draper’s shop (online, too) and a gift shop on the grounds and adjacent to the 1745 House. I have several woolen articles of clothing made by this shop and am awaiting another scarf in the Lorn tweed that is back-ordered.
Loving history, I could have spent hours in the museum in the 1745 House. I love textiles and enjoyed the many examples on display, including blackwork linens that were used as bed curtains. I also enjoyed seeing the Broach of Lorn up close. This famous Broach was once worn by Robert the Bruce but now resides as part of the MacDougall collection.\
The nurse in me was also thrilled to see a “cousin’s” connection to Joseph Lister and his studies in microbiology and infection control. Seeing actual surgery notes and slides studying malaria was a special treat. FYI, List6er was the first to apply Louis Pasteur’s germ theory to surgery to prevent infection.
 Pier and sailboat in OBan |  1800's Microscope and Malaria Slides |
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 Dunollie 1745 House |  Ancient MacDougall Tartan |
 Brooch of Lorn |  Blackwork Curtains |
 Surgical Notes |  Giant Sequoia |
 Perspective |
After touring the museum, we made our way through the garden area of the grounds. A huge sequoia tree became a spot to capture a photograph of Dan standing at its base.
Next, we wound our way uphill to the “tower.” This ancient site was originally built on this promontory with views of the harbor and the Isle of Kerrera before the 8th century. It was burned down and rebuilt three times before 801 C.E. During the 12th century, it was part of the Kingdom of the Isles, ruled by Somerled, King of the Isles (and my 23rd great-grandfather). During our visit, a painting class was busy capturing the magnificent view of the harbor on canvas
In the tower photos below, you will see bars at what seems to be the 2nd floor. Originally, the opening was not barred but was the landing for stairs into the tower. Restoration and work on the tower is ongoing.
After enjoying time at the tower, we returned to the grounds below, not wanting to leave, but with limited time, we had no choice. We drove into town and parked next to the Oban War and Peace Museum.
This small museum it may be small in square footage, but it is anything but small. It boasts an impressive collection of war and maritime artifacts, including scale models of naval/maritime vessels, uniforms, medals, and photographs from various conflicts and eras. Over time, Oban Harbor has hosted crews from the UK, United States, and Australian forces. The museum is free, but a collection box for donations rests on the host’s desk.
After checking out other shops, we made our way back to our BNB apartment. The next day would be a long one. We would be taking a Caledonian Ferry to Iona, Staffa, and Mull, three of the Inner Hebrides.
 View from Inside Tower |  Art Class at Work |
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 Dunnollie Tower Castle |  Base of Tower |
 Describe your image |  |
 View of the Bay |  Celtic Cross |
 View from Inside Tower |  Arch Seen Inside Tower |
 Daniel Taking a Break |
Scotland 2024--Day 4
On our fourth day in Scotland we required an early start. We were taking a ferry to Iona, Staffa, and Mull, three of the Inner Hebrides. We needed to be at the ferry terminal by 0900, so we rose early, dressed, and grabbed some coffee and a quick bite to eat in the apartment.
Caledonian operates multiple ferries in the UK. You can take multiple-isle tours from Oban, as we did, or take shorter excursions to -specific isles. The large ferry transports all kinds of vehicles and has a fully operational cafeteria, gift shop, and enclosed lounge. It’s also dog friendly, with dog-watering stations aboard.
After gathering in the boarding lounge, it was soon time to board the vessel. Because the weather was beautiful, Dan and I settled on the top deck at the stern. It did not disappoint! We had a panoramic view of Oban Harbor as we departed, including Dunollie Castle, as we made our way toward the Ilse of Mull. I must tell you; after having lived on a sailboat in years past, it was heaven being aboard a boat once more. The fresh sea air and being on the water just do something for the soul. BTW, if you plan to visit the Hebrides via ferry during summer (peak season) be sure and book your excursion well in advance, as these fill up quickly.
 Ferry from OBan |
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 Cafe Area on Ferry |
 Leaving Oban Harbor |
 Dunollie Castle in the Distance |
 Outdoor Deck Seating |
Our first stop was the Isle of Mull. Following Skye, Mull is the second largest island of the Inner Hebrides. Mountainous at its core, Mull has a coastline of over 300 miles. Inhabited since the end of the last Ice Age, it began to be invaded in the 6th century and those peoples established the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata.
After the Scottish Reformation, the McLean Clan, which held Mull, became supporters of Protestantism. King Charles II, upset by these factions’ civil disobedience, ordered Archibald Campbell, 9th Earl of Argyll, (and my 8th great-grandfather) to suppress the disobedience to the Crown. Despite being opposed to this way of thinking, Archibald complied, and eventually, the Campbell Clan succeeded in seizing Mull and taking control of Duart Castle.
After a glorious 45-minute trip, we disembarked the ferry and were transferred to double-decker buses for the trip across Mull. Unfortunately, the pictures we took left a lot to be desired, due to reflections on the window glass. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful ride. Like postcards, we passed through charming coastal villages and passed under the shadows of majestic peaks. And as in everywhere in Scotland—sheep, lots and lots of sheep!
 Mull Coastline |  Mist on the Mountains of Mull |
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When we arrived at our transfer location, we were boarded onto a smaller vessel to head for Staffa.
Staffa is a small, uninhabited, island. Its wildlife population is dominated by seabirds. A large colony of puffins breed on Staffa every summer and are always a favorite with visitors who can sit near them on the cliffs, watching them dive into the water and return with a fish. The breeding season between early May and the start of August is the best time to see them and also when the birds have their distinctive colorful beaks.
Geologically composed of basalt columns, Staffa’s unique appearance is further enhanced by a wondrous cave that allows the sea to ebb and flow into it. The original Gaelic name for Fingal's Cave is An Uamh Bhin – "the melodious cave" This is inspired by the sounds emanated by the sea flowing in and out of the cave and the echoes it produces.
Mendelssohn, so inspired by this isle, composed the Hebrides Overture (Fingal’s Cave). The origin of the name ‘Fingal’s Cave’ is ascribed to Finn MacCumhaill, also known as Fingal. He is believed to have been an Irish general and has been compared to a kind of Celtic King Arthur.
Making our way toward Staff, the captain hovered our vessel near the mouth of Fingal’s Cave. It’s an impressive site. He then guided us toward the landing area composed of natural basalt slabs. The steps up to the plateau of Staffa have been carved from the basalt columns there. It was a rather steep climb for me, but I made it, thanks to great handrails. However, my legs were shaking and just didn’t think I could make the trek across to see the puffins.
Fortunately, other than one young lady, the passengers I spoke to did not see puffins anyway, as they had begun to leave Saffa. I was/am disappointed. Seeing the puffins was one of the top things I wanted to experience in Scotland. (I guess that will require a return to Scotland at some point.)
Daniel made the trek around to go into Fingal’s Cave, while I waited with some other older adults. Then, we boarded the vessel for our last leg of our three-isle tour—Iona.
 Approaching Staffa |  Basalt Formations |
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 Inside Fingal's Cave |  Clownish Little Puffin |
Iona is noted as being the birthplace of Celtic Christianity in Scotland. In 563, Columba, an Irish abbot and missionary, arrived on Iona and established an abbey there. The original Book of Kells was created there. However, as Viking raiders worsened, killing many Christians, the monks eventually abandoned Iona, taking the Book of Kells back to Ireland. A copy of the book is now housed in the abbey museum on Iona, while the original is housed at Trinity College Library in Dublin, Ireland.
We departed the landing in the quaint harbor dotted with small fishing boats at anchor. Because we were both famished, got in line at the busy lone restaurant there and enjoyed fresh fish and chips. We then walked up the hill toward the ruins of the nunnery. My legs were still shaky after Staffa, so I did not make the trek to the Abbey.
Again, I was disappointed, as Archibald Campbell (one of my ancestors), is buried there in the abbey’s graveyard. That, and not seeing the puffins, were two of the several regrets during our trip. However, when traveling, I think a flexible attitude is important. Weather, closings, illness, delays, etc., can greatly impact travel, so it helps to “go with the flow.”
I lingered at the nunnery ruins, while Daniel walked to the abbey. Despite missing the abbey, I did enjoy exploring the nunnery ruins. The walls of the ruins, dotted with pink granite, which is indigenous to the area, made for some great photographs. It was beautiful weather and was peaceful and quiet in the ruins, providing a nice change of pace from our busy day.
Upon Daniel’s return to the harbor area, he enjoyed a “pint” at the small pub, while I explored the gift shop. The tartan of Iona is lovely, inspired by the sea’s jewel tones. I constrained my urges and did not buy anything, but truly enjoyed exploring and admiring the many textiles on display. If you love woolens and textiles, you will be in heaven if you visit Scotland.
Too soon, we were leaving Iona, and headed back to Oban on the Caledonian ferry. It had been a busy day, and I was tired. We took a seat in the lounge area, enjoyed a hot coffee, and watched the isles disappear as we headed for the mainland. Tomorrow we would be headed for the magical Isle of Skye!
 Iona Harbor |  Crab/Lobs6ter Traps |
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 Iona Harbor |  Nunnery Ruins |
 Pink Granite of Iona Region |  View Through an Arch in Nunnery Ruins |
 Ancient Graves at Nunnery |  Glass Window in Nunnery Ruins |
 Cross in Stonework at Nunnery |  Nunnery Ruins |
 Remaining Nunnery Walls |  Nunnery Ruins 2 |
 Abbey Ruins |  View From Nunnery Gate to Harbor Area |
Scotland 2024--Day 5
The next morning, we packed and left Oban. We wound through the countryside headed north and soon came upon a charming church in Ballachulish at the foot of Glen Coe in the Scott9ish Highlands, near Loch Linnie and the Firth of Lorn.
St John’s Episcopal Church was built in 1842. It’s striking as it has a Gothic appearance and the setting is spectacular backdrop.
Ballachulish, the town at the straights of Loch Leven, has always been synonymous with slate. The quarry there was established in the late 17th century, but is not used any longer, During the height of the Industrial Age, over 800 men worked in the quarry or at associated businesses. Most of the work done was producing roof tiles.
The quarry was established only two years after the infamous and tragic Glencoe Massacre. Much of the skyline of Glascow and Edinburgh is slate tiled and much of it was from this quarry.
Many of the headstones in St. John’s Cemetery are slate, giving the graveyard its Halloween vibe.
As we wound north, we decided to stop for brunch. Fort William seemed promising, so we found a restaurant, The Great Glen, on High Street. I had tea and toast, and Daniel had a full Scottish breakfast with haggis. I tasted it and it was excellent!
After eating, we walked across the street into a shop that advertised Harris tweed. The Tartan House was a great gift shop. Daniel found a cute tweed handbag for his wife. The shop was full of beautiful woolen items and the staff were friendly and helpful. Actually, we found that the Scottish people are kind and friendly and in 14 days there, I only encountered one person who behaved rudely and she was a customer at a gift shop.
We then made our way toward Mallaig, where you can catch a ferry to the Isle of Skye. For whatever reason, I failed to communicate to Daniel that we would be taking the Skye Bridge (further north) both to and from Skye. (I had not pre-ordered our passage.) Thus, our route was a bit redundant. When we arrived, I realized my mistake in not being clear in my communication with Daniel. I was simply enjoying the ride too much!
Despite knowing that this ferry had to be booked in advance during summer months, we pulled up to the queue to see it there was a chance of a slot for us. Not surprisingly, there was none available, so we had to backtrack and head for the Skye Bridge backtracking to Fort William. On our way out of Mallaig, we wound through this small village, enjoying the seaside atmosphere.
Before we knew it, we were crossing the bridge and headed for our lodging in Uig.
The Uig Hotel rests just across the street and up the hill from Uig Bay, which leads to Loch Snizort. The bay is on the west coast of the Trotternish peninsula. It overlooks the ferry port that serves as a gateway to the Outer Hebrides.
The Uig Hotel has been featured in many films, including Stardust, Macbeth, Prometheus, and the most recent, Seven Spielberg’s, The BFG.
The hotel was built in 1831 to serve early tourists to the area. Part of the MacDonald Estate, it was sold to Captain William Fraser in 1855. It served as a coaching inn, hunting lodge, and mail hub. Today, it is a family-owned and operated hotel
The hotel is about a five-minute walk to the ferry and is nearest the road. The lodge is behind the hotel and further up the hill behind it and was added in the early 1970s. Our room was in the lodge on the second floor and after taking our luggage up the hill and a set of tall stairs, we were wiped out. It was worth the climb, however. Our room had a stunning view of Uig Bay.
By the time we settled, it was time for dinner, so we made our way to the main hotel (they request reservations for meals). Daniel enjoyed the beef burger sans brioche bun and a side salad, as well as a pint. I had a small salad, then enjoyed the potato gnocchi, roasted wild mushrooms, deep-fried sage, semi-dried tomatoes, vegetarian parmesan & mushroom sauce. Unfortunately, I could not eat much of it. The salad willed me up!
After returning to our room, Dan made his usual evening call to his wife and we crashed with the window open, enjoying the clean, cool sea air. The next day we would be exploring the Troternish Peninsula.
 St. John's |  St. Johh's Approaching |
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 Great Glen |  Village of Mallaig |
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 View from Skye Bridge |  Isle of Skye in the Distance |
 Uig Hotel from the Road |  Beef Burger Scottish Style |
 Our Table on Night 1 |  Room with a View |
Scotland 2024--Day 6
The next morning dawned with a cool sea breeze wafting through our open window. Travel fatigue was wearing on both of us, so we took our time starting the day. I made hot tea in the room, as the rooms in Scotland have electric tea kettles and the “must-have” shortbread. The large picture window in our room blessed us with a stunning view of sunrise over Uig Bay.
Soon, adventure called, and we dressed and headed for the first stop on our day’s itinerary, the Fairy Pools. A few short minutes from our hotel, we found it with no problem. We parked in the car park, donning our boots and rain gear. It was misty, verging on light rain. I also grabbed my hiking poles, as the trail was rocky with a continuous incline. We’d researched before the trip and found that rain and mist are inherent in Scotland, regardless of the season. So, properly geared, we struck off toward the trail.
Immediately, leaving the car park, a small group of sheep observed us from the hill alongside the trail. It began to rain as we made our way (slowly due to my caution and age). As we continued, the rain grew heavier and heavier, and at some point, I asked Daniel if we should cancel this endeavor. He agreed, so disappointed, we agreed to get out of the rain and headed for the car. If you want to see more about the Fairy Pools, Ric Steves does a great YouTube video about Skye that includes this stop.
 Sunrise Over Uig Bay |  Our Observers 1 |
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 View from trail |
Back in the car, peeling off our soaked outerwear, we decided to drive around the peninsula and enjoy the sites along the way. Since many of the photographs I took during the trip were taken from the car, they cannot convey the stunning beauty of Skye. It is no wonder this island is a favorite vacation spot for Europeans and other tourists traveling during the summer months.
Our next stop was the Skye Museum of Island Life. It’s on the coast, lying northeast of the village of Hungladder. Crofting communities dot the coasts of the Hebridean Isles.
The museum has several cottages that display tolls, furnishings, and garments worn by those hardy people. The cottages include a kitchen/bedroom, barn, weaver’s cottage, smithy, and Ceilidh house. In the pictures below you will see the thatched roofs, edged by large rocks attached to the edges of the thatch. The stones weigh down the relatively light thatch and prevent harsh sea winds from blowing the roof away.
So, what is a “Ceilidh”? Ceilidh (pronounced “kay-lee”) is a Gaelic word and denotes a small, intimate gathering of friends, family, or community. In Scotland, a ceilidh includes whiskey, music, storytelling, dancing, or just visiting and catching up on the latest news all infused by the warmth and fragrant atmosphere of a peat fire. These gatherings, then and now get Scots through cold, damp, and windy winter nights. Even on summer nights, the air can be cool and damp, especially by the sea.
The kitchen cottage served as a cooking and eating area, as well as a living area. Food cooked over a 24/7 peat fire was served under the light of a lamp powered by fish liver oil This was the norm prior to later use of paraffin. They would always have a Gaelic bible, photos, and musical instruments. After having seen the museum, I can now see the threads of this culture that became my American family, settling in the Carolinas and Tennessee.
As we walked through the museum, I was in awe of the hardiness of these highlanders. They lived hard lives, often isolated, enduring long, cold, wet winters yet they thrived, finding strength in their families and the greater community.
Off the kitchen were the bedroom areas, one for the parents and another for the children. All were furnished with box beds topped by straw-filled mattresses. The sheets were linen, and the blankets were wool. Almost all these items were made by the crofters themselves. The distinctive red color you will see in the photographs was obtained using a lichen found on nearby rocks along the coast.
One of the cottages serves as a barn. The barn provided a warm, dry place for livestock during cold winters or extended rainy periods by the sea. Sheep, cattle, and chickens equaled food and clothing for a family and the livestock was well cared for. Some crofters would build an extension onto their homes that served as a barn area for the animals.
In Call the Midwife, a great series on PBS, the midwives travel to the Isle of Harris. A family in the story has one such cottage with a barn attached to the main living area. I wanted to travel there, but time would not allow that side trip. “Harris tweed” gets its name because that beautiful tweed was first made there.
The weaver’s cottage contained a loom, spinning equipment, and carders. The weaver carded the wool into straight fibers, spun those fibers into yarn, and wove it into woolen goods, such as blankets and plaids. Every young woman would have learned to knit at a young age and the yarns produced from their sheep’s wool would have provided gloves, sweaters, socks, hats, and every other kind of knitted item needed to keep the cold and dampness at bay, as wool repels water, unlike other natural fibers. The loom also produced linen fabric for clothing, bedding, and other household linens. Garments were sewn by hand (Yes, every stitch was done by needle and thread!) I especially loved seeing the samples of weaving on display the types of dyes used and their source.
The smithy’s cottage was next. In the centuries before foundries, a smithy was always busy. He made tools (knives, swords, plows, etc.), horseshoes, and other needed items for survival.
Finally, the last cottage was a type of community house, called the Ceilidh house. Here, the community gathered.
 Crofter's Cottage |  Stones on Roof |
|---|---|
 View of Thatched Roof |  Dan in Deep Thought |
 Fishing Boat |  View of Sea from Cottage Door |
 Viking Artifacts |  Pict Era Artifact |
 Spinning Wheel |  Loom with Woven Samples |
 Sources of Traditional Dyes on Skye |
As we left the entrance cottage for the museum, we saw the entrance to Kilmur Cemetery next to the museum. The infamous Fiora MacDonald is buried there. This brave woman assisted the Bonnie Prince Charles (Stewart)escape the clutches of English trooops after the Battle of Culloden. Fiora became a a national hero for Scotland because of her actions.
The setting of the cemetery has a sea view and another interesting grave. A carved image of a knight in full armor lies at the far end of the cemetery. It marks the grave of Angus Martin, known as “Angus of the Wind”. It is said that he got his nickname because he would sail in any type of weather. It is said he married a Danish princess and fathered seven sons. with her during the 16th century and it is believed he stole the grave slab of a Scottish king from the island of Iona and carried it on his back to his boat, taking it to Skye.
 Portrait of Fiona MacDonald |  Kilmur Cemetary Gate |
|---|---|
 Fiona's Headstone |  Fiona's Grave |
 Angus' Grave Slab |
As we left the museum area, I’m sure we passed many noteworthy stops. However, like so much about our drives around Scotland, the scenery was so enchanting, it truly did not matter that we did not identify famous sites. The Hebrides and the Highlands are magic. Truly!
So, we drove, enjoying the endless views of sea and sky, interspersed with majestic green landscapes, quaint villages, charming churches, and sheep. Did I say sheep? Yes, sheep, lots and lots of sheep. How else would I have my beautiful scarves, sweaters, and Daniel, his kilt? Yes, sheep are the key to the brisk woolen industry in Scotland.
Soon we were approaching the stunning view of the Trotternish ridge, which includes the Quairang. This impressive ridge was created by a massive landslide eons ago. A Quarang hike of almost 7 kilometers along the top (without stopping) takes about two hours to complete for those with that level of stamina. Regardless of fitness, it should only be attempted during good weather and visibility. When walking along high cliffs, safety is paramount. Dan and I did not attempt that climb. However, Dan would cross another impressive activity off his bucket list the next day.
 Approaching Ridge |  Sea and Skye! |
|---|---|
 Quaraing! |
We didn’t eat lunch that day, so by the time our dinner reservations at the hotel arrived, we were famished. We shared Scottish west coast mussels poached in white wine, garlic, and leek. Did I say yummy? For the main course, I had pan-roasted North Uist scallops in citrus butter, samphire, orange, and fresh herbs. (Samphire is a succulent from the parsley family. It grows in rocky and marshy areas, like shorelines and salty mudflats.) Dan had a battered sea haddock and a side salad. I couldn’t resist, so I ordered vanilla crème brulé. We both nibbled on it, but could not finish it, which I am sure is some kind of crime.
By the time we went to our room, we were stuffed. In case any of the readers visit Skye and want a nice dinner, don’t miss the Uig Hotel dining room. The food is amazing. They request reservations, however.
A bit later, after Dan made his evening call to his wife, with full tummies, we settled in to sleep in cool, clean sea air. We needed to rest up for another great day on Skye.
Scotland 2024--Day 7
The day dawned clear. Dan and I didn’t have many things we wanted to see that day, other than Kilt Rock, Neist Point Lighthouse, and, if time allowed, the distillery.
After dressing, we struck out to Kilt Rock. Before getting there, I had Dan pull over so I could snap a picture of heather along the roadside. I don’t know if Dan is aware, but I lost my footing and fell into the shallow ditch. I think he was looking something up on his phone. I was not hurt, and the grass was soft. I did get the picture, however. It was the only tumble I took in Scotland. Considering the hills, and cobbled and uneven streets, I am thankful I wasn’t hurt. Would I do it again? You bet! No, not fall! Go to Scotland! The first day we were there, Dan said, “Mom, I want to live in Scotland.” I, too, would move there, if I had the resources and connections to get a visa.
Soon, we were in the car park for Kilt Rock. This site is popular, if for no other reason than its dramatic view. Closest to the lookout area is a waterfall. It falls almost 200 meters down to the sea, flowing from Loch Mealt. It tumbles onto the rocky shore below and into the Sound of Raasay. A local told me that, at times the wind here can be so strong that the falling water doesn't reach the bottom before being blown out to sea. Beyond the waterfall is a basal rock formation called Kilt Rock, due to the vertical columns that resemble pleats in a kilt.
There were quite a few tourists that morning, but I did manage to get a couple of great shots. Perfect weather, a breathtaking view, and of course, the sea, was certainly a morning I will never forget. I will include some photographs on this page, but frankly, I don’t know where they were taken. I was so enamored by the beauty of Skye (as well as the Highlands), that I simply enjoyed the drive. I was afraid to have my eyes on a map and miss something.
 View to Right of Lookout at Kilt Rock |  Kilt Rock |
|---|---|
 Trotternish Ridge |
After leaving Kilt Rock, we found a great, little, and welcoming bistro, The Hungry Gull on Staffin Road. The parking lot was packed, so we had to park at the church next door. Not having had breakfast, we were both hungry. The restaurant was filled with climbers. Daniel had a hamburger (double meat) and I had a sandwich. We both had side salads.
The food in Scotland is so clean and locally sourced that you can taste the difference. That simple little salad was delicious! They had an amazing variety of baked goods, all displayed at the register. Unable to resist, I bought a small tart with a mixed fruit filling. I’m sure they sell plenty of their baked goods and warm drinks. Given the volume of hungry hikers stopping at the Hungry Gull to load up on carbs, they probably seel lots of everything.
We then drove back to the Trotternish Ridge and to the Old Man of Storr. The ridge was created over 60 million years ago. The hike around the top is almost 4 kilometers from the car park and back. Daniel was ready for some serious cardio, but I knew I would not make it and even trying would slow him down. So, while he enjoyed the best of outdoor Skye and climbing the Old Man of Storr, I waited in the car, read, and nibbled on my tart.
Afterward, we drove around, enjoying the beauty of Skye. After discussing it, we decided that we would not make the distillery or lighthouse. I would have loved to see the edge-of-the-world view from Neist Point. Though, no far in miles, the drive takes time, given the single-track roads, that curve and twist around hilly and mountainous terrain.
Too soon our last beautiful day on Skye drew to a close. Tomorrow, we would be driving to Inverness with several sites on our planned itinerary.
Quaraing |  Describe your image |
|---|---|
 Heather in Bloom |  Old Man of Storr |
Sea and Sky |
Scotland 2024--Day 8
We woke up to a rainy, misty day. In other words, it was a normal day in Scotland. You just must stick around, as it will change, either for better or worse. We were fortunate during our visit. We did have rainy, misty weather, but it being July/August, it was mostly pleasant during the day and could be cool in the evenings, but no truly cold weather. Those familiar with Scotland will realize there were many popular stops we passed by along the way as you read this journal. We simply picked the ones we wanted to see most and despite our best efforts, there was simply not enough time and/or there were issues (closed sites, failure to book tickets, or unable to find parking).
Our first stop was Eilean Donan Castle, which means “island of Donan.” Likely named after Irish Saint Bishop, who visited Scotland in the 1st century C.E. This is further evidenced by the number of churches in the area named after him.
This iconic castle is one of the most photographed castles in Scotland and was bult in the 13th century as a defense against Viking invaders who had raided and settled in this part of Scotland from the 9th-13th centuries. Accessed by a cobbled foot bridge, it lies on a small island at the confluence of three sea lochs: Loch Duich, Loch Long, and Loch Alsh.
Eilean Donan was involved in the Jacobite rebellions of the 17th and 18th centuries. In 1719, it was manned by Spanish soldiers supporting the Jacobite cause. The Jacobite were Scots who wanted a Catholic king restored to the Scottish throne. That king was James VIII. His son, the “bonnie” Prince Charles was sent to ensure and lead the rebels in the expulsion of the English from Scotland. (That’s another story to be explained when I blog about Culloden Battlefield.)
When the English got wind of the castle’s involvement in rebellion, they sent heavily armed frigates and bombarded the castle. This lasted for three days with limited results as some of the walls were 14 feet thick. Finnlay, the commanding officer sent men ashore and over-whelmed the Spanish defenders. Upon capture of the castle the English discovered a magazine of 343 barrels of gunpowder. Yikes! They used it to blow up what remained after three days of bombardment
It remined a ruin until 19011, when Lt Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap bought the island and spent the next 20 years restoring it. Now, the castle is complete with furniture, art, tapestries, and other things a clan would have possessed in such a castle for that period.
The castle is associated with Clan Mackenzie and Clan MacRae: The MacRaes were bodyguards for Clan Mackenzie and became the castle's constables in 1509. They were Known as the "wild MacRaes" for their fighting prowess. Descendants of Clan MacRae still currently hold the castle's titles.
Because of the steady rain and cloudy skies, we did not get any good photographs of the castle, but there’s a multitude of pictures on the Internet of this lovely castle.
 Ellean Donan Castle |  Dining Hall |
|---|---|
 Bagpipes |
After leaving the castle, we meandered through the gift shop, then headed to the car. We had no plans to visit the tourist sites related to Loch Ness or look for “Nessie,” the Loch Ness Monster. We did, however, after the weather cleared, drove to the loch and parked beside the road and took some pictures. It’s just a lake/loch, although a famous one.
 Loch Ness |
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By the time we arrived in Inverness, we were both famished. Daniel found Eastgate Shopping Centre, which by American definitions, is a two-story mall. After walking around a bit, we settled on our lunch choices. I don’t remember what Dan ate, but I had a great stuffed, baked potato, filled with shredded BBQ. Go figure. Barbeque in Scotland. It made this Southern girl’s tummy happy.
With full tummies, we wandered around a bit more than we went outside, laughing when we saw a Burger King® and a Subway®. I don’t understand why someone would pay to go to Europe (or any other foreign country) and eat American fast food. There are so many great local dishes to try when traveling, whether domestically or abroad.
We then crossed the street to Falcon Square Merkat Cross. I had to get a photo of the statue for my great-granddaughter. Her two favorite things are unicorns and rainbows. Although we didn’t get blessed with a rainbow, we certainly found a unicorn, which is the national symbol of Scotland.
By the time we made it out of the underground parking garage and found our hotel, it was almost check-in time. Unfortunately, I had made a mistake, and we did not have a room until the next night. I was verging on panic. However, Liz and her staff at the Chieftain Hotel were amazing! They found us a room. While we waited for it to be ready, Dan and I sat in the hotel’s pub and enjoyed watching a soccer match on the big-screen television. Four local gentlemen were doing what all men do when drinking beer and watching sports---laughing, talking, or yelling a lot!
By the time we went to the dining room, we were just wanting some comfort food. I ordered a lovely meal of roast boof, mashed potatoes, vegetables, gravy, and a popover. Then, it was up to the room and to bed.
 Dome in Mall |  Mercat Cross Falcon Square |
|---|---|
 Unicorn! |  Our Lovely Room |
 Tea Tray in Room |  Dan After Driving All Day |
 Ceiling of Dining Room |  Dinner! |
Scotland 2024--Day 9
Upon waking the next morning, I realized that we were two-thirds through our two-week visit to Scotland. It was just not enough time to see this remarkable and beautiful country; it was too fast to meet and form connections with the kind and friendly Scots. Being 43% Scottish, I knew that as we walked each day we were passing cousins unbeknownst.
After dressing and gathering the things needed for the day, we went to the hotel’s breakfast buffet. The dining room was a delightful mix of cultures that morning. At the table next to us was an older Scottish couple. Beyond them was a couple eating with two young children. Speaking French, they struggled with the English word for “poached” when trying to order breakfast. Finally, the waitress, understanding halted descriptions, got the gist and took their order. Around a divider, I could hear the excited voices of a table of Italian-speaking gusts.
Daniel and I ate at a leisurely pace, in no hurry. We only had one major stop planned for today. My errors in planning our itinerary gave us a second full day in Inverses, which worked out great. For the first time during the trip, that extra day allowed us to slow down and enjoy the day more mindfully.
Our planned and relaxed excursion for today is Culloden Moor, the site of a battle that had a devastating aftermath on Scotland’s culture and independence.
The battle of Culloden would end in an overwhelming loss of Jacobite lives. After decades of striving to reinstate a Catholic king to the throne of Scotland, the Scottish Highlanders were brutally defeated by the English on April 16, 1746. In less than one hour, the estimated fatalities of highlanders were 2,000 men, while the English deaths were less than 300 men. The highlanders (many were farmers, not trained warriors) were cut down by a much larger and highly trained English army. Also, many of the highlanders were accompanied by spouses and children, who were not engaged in the battle itself. They were supporting their men remaining behind the front. Their role was to support the cause, not fight the English. However, guilt by association led to the slaughter of these innocent civilians after the battle, as well. All were buried in mass graves across the moor.
At the center of this conflict was the “Bonnie” Prince Charles Stewart, also, known as the Young Pretender. Charles’s grandfather was James II, Scotland’s exiled Catholic king. Despite past and failed “risings” by Scottish highlanders, the prince was determined to regain the Stewart/Catholic throne of Scotland. Discouraged by failure to gain French and Papal support for his cause, the impatient prince set out for Scotland and on July 1945, landed on the island of Eriskay, one of the northern Outer Hebridean Isles.
The Scottish clans gathered every possible warrior as the prince made his way through Scotland. After the battle, the British army hunted and killed clan chiefs or sympathizers. They banned kilts, tartans, bagpipes, and speaking Gaelic, the most common language of the highlanders. Scottish Highland culture would never fully recover. In other words, the English government wanted to destroy Scottish identity. This was much like America’s treatment of Native Americans.
This small army eventually gained Sterling Castle, which is a massive fortress. Believed to be the key to controlling Scotland, this gain was impressive. At one point, the prince’s army was in English territory, near Edinburgh. Concerns about being far outnumbered and other tactical reasons, they eventually turned back and made their way to Culloden Moor, outside Inverses.
As we drove towards the moor, we enjoyed a relaxed drive in the Scottish countryside. At one point, a small village came into view, a body of water (not sure of its name) beyond the line of whitewashed cottages. Dan pulled over and I took a photograph.
 Road to Culloden |  Village Pass Along the Way |
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It was misting heavily when we entered the visitors’ car park for the museum and memorial. After buying admission tickets, we made our way through the visitors’ center. The displays are a variety of visual and audio education about every aspect of the battle, as well as items found in archeological digs in the moor.
Soon, we made our way outside and began our walk along the footpaths through the moor. This center and the care of the moor are now the responsibility of the National Trust of Scotland, responsible for the upkeep and care of many historic sites across the country.
Cullodin reminded me of the Gettysburg field in the U.S. There’s a spiritual heaviness in the air there—a deep sense of loss hangs heavy in the air and visitors reflect that in the thoughtful quiet in them as they walk amongst the unnamed graves below.
The day was cloudy and misting, which matched my mood as we walked across the moor, saddened by the needle’s loss of war, any war. Nature’s paintbrush had swept across the moor, purple heather in full bloom. Before turning back to the visitor’s center, Dan sent his drone aloft and quickly got some shots of the field from a bird’s eye view.
As you walk along the footpaths, stone monuments commemorate the sites of clans’ mass graves. Fathers and sons, cousins, etc. rest below the heather. One stone that Outlander fans will recognize (Frasier Clan) was roped off. (I assume to keep die-hard fans from damaging the stone, hoping to take a souvenir home with them.)
At the visitor’s center, we checked out the gift shop and I bought a couple of gifts. While I was standing at the checkout, talking to the clerk, I crossed paths with the one and only person to be rude during fourteen days in Scotland. She rushed up to the checkout, pushed in front of me, interrupted my conversation with the clerk, and threw some items on the counter. I let her make her purchase and she was soon checked out and gone. As I was being rung out, a woman came out from behind the counter and said, “I am so sorry that happened. That is not the way we do business here.” I smiled at her and told her that I knew it wasn’t the employees’ fault and that I had lived long enough to know when to pick a battle. That woman’s rudeness was not worth the negative energy to make a fuss. We both had a good laugh.
Later, after returning to Inverness, Dan and I went to The Victorian Market. I found a darling Royal Stewart tartan kilt (size 6) for my daughter-in-law’s grandson. After returning home, I received a text image of the little man in his kilt. They later told me that he didn’t want to take it off.
As we drove around, I took a few pictures of some homes near the hotel. There are many other sites to see in Inverness, but We were both tired and needed the respite of not having to rush from stop to stop. Later, Dan and I had dinner in the hotel. The next day we would be on the road once more. This time we would be headed for our last stop—Edinburgh.
 Bonnie Prince Charles |  Heather in Bloom |
|---|---|
 Yes, I love Heather |  |
 Memorial Cairn |  Fraser Memorial Stone |
 Stewart Memorial Stone |  Leanach Cottage |
 Drone View of Culloden |  Culloden Moor |
 Inverses Town House |  Victorian Market |
Scotland 2024--Day 10
The next morning, after packing, checking out, and loading the car, we bid Inverness goodbye. Soon we were on the motorway (interstate) headed south toward Edinburgh. We originally wanted to stop in the Speyside area (where many distilleries are located). I wanted to visit the Macallun distillery, but we decided to pass after discovering that the tour we wanted to take was over $200 per person. Of course, that included a very nice tasting survey of their whiskeys, but still….
I’ve only purchased one bottle of Macallum, 18-year-old Sherry Oak Scotch. It’s been long gone and was purchased years ago. Truthfully, I’m not much of a whiskey drinker, so the whiskey I drink must grab my nose and tastebuds for me to go beyond a sniff and a tiny sip. However, this Scotch whiskey does just that. The bouquet hints of orange and cinnamon, plus subtle flavors including ginger, raisins, dates, and dark chocolate, is an irresistible draw for me and my sweet tooth.
So, we bypassed the Speyside area and sped down the motorway toward Edinburgh. Dan’s interest in a distillery was limited to the Johnny Walker store in Edinburgh, so that was on our “to-do” list.
Our first stop was Stirling, home of Stirling Castle. This iconic castle was the favored home of the Stewart kings. Over the centuries, it has served as a defensive castle and a palace for Scottish royalty. Additionally, its location resting in the borderland north of England and on the top of a huge crag, protected on all sides by steep cliffs, gives it a strong defensive position.
Most of the castle was built in the 14th and 15th centuries and it has witnessed much of Scotland’s history. Mary, Queen of Scots was crowned there. Also, it has been besieged many times, the last after the War of Independence (1746), after Bonnie Prince Charges’ failed attempt to restore the Stewart throne in Scotland.
By the time we arrived in Stirling, we were hungry. So, we did something we both would not normally do, even in the States. We stopped at McDonalds. Yes, THE McDonalds of the golden arches. Clean and modern, we ordered from a large touchscreen and waited a short time for our order to be ready. Soon, we were enjoying hot coffee and something to keep our blood sugar up.
Then, we were back in the car and headed for the castle. However, it was not meant to be. The castle is ringed by narrow streets with rare parking and no open slots. In addition, the castle’s car park was closed. We drove around the castle a couple of times, then gave up. Disappointed, we got back on the road and headed south.
 Motorway to Edinburgh |  Stirling Castle |
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As we drove further south, the landscape began to change. Instead of highland munros (mountains) and glens, there were rolling hills and pastureland. Not realizing we were passing our exit, we saw the Kelpies off to our right, too late to stop. So, we kept going.
These massive sculptures by Andy Scot depict the mythical shapeshifting spirit that inhabits waterways throughout Ireland and Scotland. Most often reported to be in the form of a gray or white horse, they are also reported at times to be in human form with hooves. Robert Burns wrote of this creature in his poem, Address to the Devil. Most sizable bodies of water in Scotland have kelpie stories attached to them.
Soon, we were on the outskirts of Edinbugh and made our way to the AirBNB we’d rented for our three days in Edinbugh. It was in Leith on the banks of the Water of Leith, a tributary of the Firth of Forth.
The district of Leith has served as the port of Edinburgh for hundreds of years. The original harbor dates to the 14th century. Many traveling royals have arrived or departed Leith, including Mary Queen of Scots and King George IV.
So, we found ourselves waiting in the car for the owner to arrive, orient us to the apartment, and give us the keys. He soon arrived and we unloaded the car, thankful for an elevator to get our luggage to the third floor.
This apartment was nice. Modern, with a sleek eat-in kitchen, butler’s pantry, two bedrooms and keep soaking tub in the bathroom, it was the nicest lodging during our stay in Scotland. It also had a small balcony overlooking the Water of Leith, bordered by generous walkways on each side of the canal. This busy, upscale area met our needs during our stay here. A short walk led us to restaurants, an Aldi store, bus stops, and several bistros and pubs.
The view from the 3rd-floor balcony gave a birds-eye view of the canal during downtime. It also served as a clothes dryer. Much to our dismay, the apartment had a washer, but no dryer, so we used the balcony to dry clothes when the weather allowed. We also utilized the towel warmer in the bathroom for some items.
After turning in the car, we went to Aldi and picked up some groceries. After putting the food away we went down and began to explore the area along the canal, looking for a place to eat. We passed several pubs, a coffee shop, and a French restaurant that wold be great for a romantic, but pricey dinner.
Finally, we happened upon Teuchter's Landing, a quaint restaurant on the water. I ordered the venison stew and Dan had his go-to, a burger with double meat. It was delicious!
Disappointed at not getting to see Sterling Castle and the Kelpies, after walking back to the apartment, we settled in for the night. Tomorrow, we would be taking a bus into Edinburgh.
 Kelpies at Falkirk |  Bus Stop Near Apartment |
|---|---|
 Serius About Beer |  Skylight in Teuchter's |
 Stew Done Right! |